Wittenberg and Eisenach

Church of Luther's Baptism

Church of Luther’s Baptism

July 24 and 25, 2016  

Today we worshiped in the Town Church in Wittenberg. This is where Luther preached for many years. While the service was completely in German, the bulletin had both German and English to follow along. We were greeted at the beginning of the service as well as bishops from the Congo and a couple other tour groups. We sang the hymns as best we could, communed with those gathered and were filled with the presence of God knowing that where two or three are gathered in God’s name, God is present – no matter the language you use. I also enjoyed worshiping with my wife next to me in the pew.  

We loaded up the bus and left Wittenberg for Eisenach – the birthplace and place of death for Luther. We learned about Luther’s family and upbringing. We toured the church where he was baptized – a modern church on that spot.  

We walked to the church where Luther preached his last sermons. He was in town to settle some disputes, ordain pastors and preach.   

After his last sermon Luther was carried to a neighboring house complaining of pain in his chest and knowing the end was near. Surrounded by family and colleagues he died the next day. It is said that his final words were, “We are all beggars that is true.” 

Our final stop for the day was our hotel in Erfurt. This will be home for three nights. 

July 25 – Erfurt and Buchenwald

Erfurt is the town where Luther studied liberal arts (like a bachelors degree) and later entered the monastery. He was on his way back to school in Erfurt to study law, but in the midst of a terrible thunderstorm he prayed to St. Anne – the Saint of the miners – that he survive, and if he did, he would become a monk. True to his word, he entered the monastery and studied to become a priest in July of 1505. He was ordained a priest in the chapel laying down on the ground before the altar and gave an oath to be a true defender of the Church of Rome.  

It was in this place Luther offered his First Mass, and fumbled through it embarrassing his father who was in attendance. 

The stained glass windows are the original from 14th century. You can see what later became known as the Luther rose in the glass – his inspiration for his crest. 

Over time Luther became a supervisor and a district vicar. In 1511 he went to Rome on business. He was a great teacher and devout monk.  

We gathered in a meeting room at the monastery where chores were given out each day. This room was the place of a special meeting just a few years ago.  Whenever a pope visits Germany he must meet with the German Bishop. Benedict came in 2011 and met with the bishop in this room. 

Monastery Chapel Where Luther was Ordained a Priest

Monastery Chapel Where Luther was Ordained a Priest

We visited St Martin of Tours church.  Every November 10 there is a service commemorating Luther at this church. For lunch we had bratwurst and a beer at a street side cafe.  

Our afternoon was spent at Buchenwald – a work camp during World War II. This is the place Dietrich Bonhoeffer was held and later hanged as a political prisoner. It is required of all German school students to visit one of the concentration or work camps. And it is against the law to  negate the Holocaust. This camp was opened from 1937-1945. It was here that 56,000 prisoners died. This camp built to house 8000 had 120,000 packed in at its fullest. Only men were housed at this camp. It served as a training site for the SS, where they were taught to be obedient to the Third Reich and to treat the inmates harshly. 
 

The camp served as a rifle factory and was the main camp for 139 other camps. There was a hierarchy of camps that included 1100 camps plus other prisons and holding areas- in all over 10,000 sites. I never realized there were so many. When the prisoners arrived they were made to run from the town to the camp – 8 kilometers or about 5 miles. They were registered and given colored triangles that were used to label them for their reason of imprisonment. There was a Hierarchy of these groups – the Jews and homosexuals were treated most harshly.  

In the barracks the prisoners were packed in. There was only 20 centimeters of space per person – that is only 8 inches. Twelve in one bunk – when one rolled over all had to roll over. Pastor Paul Schneider was one who died here. 

Buchenwalder

Buchenwald

The following information is from Wikipedia: Schneider was incarcerated in Buchenwald on November 27, 1937, just a few months after the camp opened. In the labor commandos, Pastor Schneider watched out for his fellow inmates. After being sentenced to solitary confinement, he preached the good news of the Gospel from the window of his prison cell. He was moved to the cell when he refused to remove his beret in honor of Hitler on the Führer’s birthday, April 20, 1938 and to salute the swastika flag. He explained his behavior by saying “I cannot salute this criminal symbol“. He also refused, as he had done earlier, the Hitler salute, saying that “you can only receive salvation (Heil) from the Lord and not from a human being.” 

From his cell, Schneider accused his captors and encouraged his fellow inmates. On one occasion on Easter Sunday, when thousands of prisoners were assembled for mustering, despite being severely handicapped by previous torture he climbed to the cell window and shouted: “Comrades, listen to me. This is Pastor Schneider. People are tortured and murdered here. So the Lord says, ‘I am the resurrection and the life!’

His speech was interrupted by his tormentors. As others had pleaded years earlier, the man who mopped the floors in the solitary confinement building begged Schneider, “Please stop provoking the SS against you…They will beat you to death if you continue preaching from your cell window.”
Buchenwalder

Buchenwald

On July 18, 1939, Schneider was murdered with a lethal injection in the camp infirmary. Camp officials notified Margarete Schneider of her husband’s death and she made the long journey from Dickenschied to retrieve his body in a sealed coffin. Despite Gestapo surveillance, hundreds of people and around two hundred fellow pastors attended Pastor Schneider’s funeral, including many members of the Confessing Church. 

One of the pastors preached at the grave side, “May God grant that the witness of your shepherd, our brother, remain with you and continue to impact on future generations and that it remain vital and bear fruit in the entire Christian Church.” 

We walked through the crematoriums –  a burn house that was modeled as waste burning facility. In the cellar over 1100 inmates were hung strangled to death in the cellar. The bodies then were burned. 

At the main gate the only clock is set at 3:15, for it was at that time on April 11, 1945, the camp of 21,000 was liberated, with 900 dead on the grounds. Several died in the following weeks from diseases. 

The American troops took 4000 citizens from Weimar to see the dead in the camp and to see what happened. The people were unaware of the devastation on these grounds. 

We gathered around a memorial on the grounds and shared a bible reading, reflection and prayers. It was a somber, moving day. We are thankful that we made this stop.  

Peace, 

Charlie 


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